Hey <br>I was just informed that that the box I have is the wrong kind for my car.. is there such a thing as a wrong kind<br><br>I have 2 ten inch subs Jensen in a Jensen box hooked up to a 500 Jensen Amp.. ummm as you can see I went with Jensen lol.. I have a sony explode Head unit though..<br><br>thanx for the advice on the wiring by the way I couldnt believe how easy it was..<br>anyways my question is.. the jensen box is that the "Wrong" type of box for a gen 4 camry..<br>also another friend told me if I take the plastic glass off the box it will be louder because my trunk will act as the box.. is there any truth to that???

Sunskin, It's so easy, you'll kick yourself. All the panels on the Gen 4 camry just snap on and off. Simply lead all the wires behind the front consul, (I led mine to the left) (In Australia, we drive on the right.) Put the leads to the far corner and then run underneath the plastic guards that run along the floor next to the door. They go all the way to the rear seat and into the boot. (Sorry - Trunk!) ;)

When I had my 96 Camry (totaled in accident on Halloween), I had a 12" sub in the trunk. Like Jimmylexus said, I ran my power wires behind the dash to the driver's side and then lifted the door sill panels up and ran the wires under the carpet to the back, under the back seat and up through the trunk carpet. I grounded my amp to the seat belt anchors. If you are using a quality RCA patch cable from the head unit to the amp, the door sill may not provide the clearance you need. What I did was run the patch cable under the center console and where the arm rest is, I unscrewed it so I could raise it up and slid the patch cable under the carpeting where the hump is. It requires a little work to get it through, but it's worth it. You should be able to do it with a 12' patch cable and the excess you can coil, tie off and lay under the rear seat.<br><br>The reason for this...you want to keep your power wires away from your patch cables to make sure you don't get any electrical interference. Also, make sure you use a shielded patch cable. With all the electronics in a car...it will eliminate any other noises filtering in to the sound system.<br><br>I may not have a Camry now, but I do plan on getting another. I WILL BE BACK!!! *smile*

Good, your getting another Camry. YAY!

Come on now...how could I consider myself a Camry lover if I wasn't going to get another one? LOL Besides...I had too many plans already set for the one I had AND I am helping to start a Camry club for the MD/DC/VA area. As soon as more info is available, it will be posted here. If you have any suggestions as to the best way to get things started, please leave some posts to give some ideas. Thanks!<br><br>Anyone in the DC Metro area that may be interested in becoming a member...look out for details in the near future.

To all of you guys that replied thank you very much

I'm not an expert, just another car sound fan. But here's what I know. (I have a gen 4 Cam too.)<br>1. The question is not, do you have the right box for the car, but Do you have the right box for your subs? Your car has little to do with it. If that box is customed to those particular subs at that particular power rating then that will be as good as it gets. The position matters though, I found that in my car I have my sub firing towards the rear of the car from the front of the trunk (This gives plenty of air space in front of the subs), this sounds much better than firing toward the driver (Usually in a tight space). There is one other option however, some people with ported boxes lead the porting tube through the shelf into the cabin. (It can go through a 6x9 hole.)<br>2. If you take out the perspex, you will end up with a very ordinary sound that is hard to describe - Fluffy?! - Don't listen to your friend, though I'm sure they mean well. Subs need to be enclosed. Your trunk is massive by comparison and isn't air-tight. Your trunk acts more like a secondary box (If it's open you will notice a drop in the cabin sound).

Thanx alot man.. <br>You seem to know what your doing, I am going to take you word rather then listen to the morons I call my friends..<br>thanx again

Just to throw my 2 cents in. I have a full Fosgate systemand when I first got it I got one the dual bandpass boxes, which i assume the jensons come in also just a little different design. The bass was EATEN up by that dual bandpass box. I went to a sealed box and it feels like I doubled my bass output. My conclusion with the bandpass boxes are that they are one, for competition systems that need good looks as well are are powered with very high watt amps that make it able to thump even with the trunk open (ie competition situation). Or like was already said, bandpass boxes are specifically made to be paired with a specific sub and specific amp. I usually only see really good sounding bandpass boxes in the average joe's car used with only one smaller sub like an 8" or ten". Basically if you got the watts and the need, bandpass is good but sealed gives the average guy WAYY better bass in the cabin with the trunk closed. Taking the plexi glass off still leaves you with the ports open ( which will sound worse than leaving it on) which need to be sealed if you decided to go that route and usually it's tough to completely seal it off and if you mess up the box is ruined as a bandpass box. Hope this doesn't make ur decision harder lol--hope it helps.

The guys on here are right! Ryan...you made the right change. Anytime you have an enclosed trunk, the best box to use is a sealed box. Using a ported or bandpass box is really a waste unless you tunnel the ports into the cabin of your car. Otherwise, it's lost in the trunk. A sealed box utilizes nothing but sound waves and that's why it seems louder and rocks the car even more. One thing to note, the way you position your sub in the trunk can also affect the level of bass you hear. I had mine firing at the back of the rear seat at first and it was okay. Sounded kind of muddy, but then I turned it around (back of the back against back of rear seat) firing at the back of the trunk and it seemed the level went up and the sound cleared up more. Don't be afraid to experiment to get the best sound for your car.

Thank you very much for you help guys <br>I really Appreciate it.. I turned the box towards the rear and my car shakes like crazy when I turn up the bass the quality of the sound is good too..<br><br>Umm I have one more question.. Do you think it would be wise to bridge my subs..?? alot of people are giving me advice I'm not sure whos to take.. I dont know much about sound systems I'm more into performance.. so any information about getting the best quality out of my system helps..<br><br>Thanx again guys.. any and all suggestions are welcome

How do you currently have your subs hooked up. I've heard of bridging amps or hooking up subs in parallel or in series, but never heard of bridging subs.<br><br>Do you have one amp running two subs? If so, leave it so that you have a channel going to each sub. Your amp won't work as hard.

allmet, <br>it all depends on what kind of amplifier you have. If you have a high current amp, you can push your speakers MUCH harder if they can handle it. I suggest looking on the manufacturers website and see what the lowest ohm load you can run the amp on. If you do have a good amplifier, you can run it down to 2 or 1 ohms, and each time you cut the ohm load in half, you double the wattage that goes to each voice coil in the speakers. Now just worry about how good your speakers are :-) <br>Good luck

What you are saying is very true, but I was giving out advice for someone that seems to just be getting his feet wet. <br><br>The set up you are speaking of would require someone to spend top dollar for the components that can handle the ohm loads you are talking about. Especially the amps.<br><br>Good advice though.

Well some of the posts have been pritty much on the money. I compete as well....and am using a sealed enclosure setup for my 2 JL 12s. The difference is that most bandpass/fiberglass cars compete in what they call the "outlaw" categories....in which the mic is allowed to be placed anywhere in the car (most of these guys put the mic right in the port of the box). I hate this category....think its cheating myself. Someone can put a mic in a ported box with a 10 in sub and hit like 170 dbs. I compete in the legal division...in which the mic is placed on the dash of the car....so the DBs reading you get is pritty much as fair as it gets. Otherwise, the only other benifit of fiberglass is for the looks. <br><br>The main difference between sealed and ported/bandpass systems is that ported enclosures create a more "boomy" sound, while sealed systems are a bit tighter. I love the sound of my 2 12s...and with over 1000 watts going to the subs...I definately have no complaints about DBL output as well. Also, when competing, the trunk is closed and I put down my rear seats so the sound is going straight to the dash. You can tell a big difference. <br><br>Take a look at my setup if you like:<br><a href=http://members.sounddomain.com/tmanana123 target=new>http://members.sounddomain.com/tmanana123</a>